Escaping the Jungle

This crazy jungle known as Kampala can chew you up and spit you out if you're not careful. I started to lose my cool yesterday in the market. It's threatening and exhausting to be constantly berated.

WHITE MAN = MONEY = SWARM HIM LIKE BEES TO HONEY

As I alluded to in my previous post, the soccer game refocused my team and set the stage for a good week so far. BUT, sometimes that is not enough. Sometimes you just need to escape from everything and everyone and do your own thing. This blog is more then just a summary on the progression and successes of Light of the Lord Global Missions. It's an honest, all encompassing look at my adventure.

So, what do I do when I need an escape? My close family and friends know it's just two things:

1) FOOD - hole-in-the-wall, down home, popular to the locals, non-chain, delicious food 

2) PHYSICAL FITNESS - no, not a treadmill or some worthless machines. I mean Fight Club, kick my butt, torture me type fitness. Make me cry, or bleed, or throw up. That's fitness. 

Both are therapeutic, both help me relax, but most importantly, both make me very happy : ) 

So, let's escape from work today....

CrossFit Uganda, Anyone?

Meet Moses. Moses is the trainer at the little gym in my apartment complex. He is a country music singer, wears a cowboy hat and cowboy boots and taught himself how to play the guitar. His favorite musician is Dolly Parton (American country music is very popular over here). He writes all his own music. In true country music fashion, he wrote a song about how his girlfriend ran off with a Muzungu (white man) in Europe while she was working on her Masters. How awesome is Moses? He is the kind of person you like within 5 minutes of shaking his hand. 

Moses noticed me working out the first couple days I was here and said, "I like that you train your body without machines." That's all he had to say, it was a match made in Heaven! Since that day I've taken Moses under my wings and started showing him some CrossFit stuff. 

In the above picture, I am teaching Moses the first fundamental movement of CrossFit - the air squat. For his first workout, I put him through Tabata Squats - 20 seconds of work, 10 seconds of rest, for 8 rounds.  He made it to round 6 and quit. It was quite amusing, but he was a great sport. 

So now the daily routine works something like this: I come home and work out (escape), Moses draws pictures of everything I do, and then I teach him another lesson on CrossFit. Hey, spreading a fitness revolution can be a mission in itself. 

Food, You Complete Me

To my future wife - you have to love food as much as you love me, or we're not going to last too long. I guess you can blame it on my Italian genes or being spoiled with the best Italian cooking all my life. I have to admit, I'm pretty darn good at sniffing out good food joints in any town, but I cheated in order to find the best coffee in Kampala. 

With the help of Lonely Planet, they guided me to Cafe Pap on Parliament Ave. Thanks to my parents obsession, I've become quite the coffee snob. I have to go with Lonely Planet and say that this is the best coffee in town. The house coffee comes directly from the slopes of Mt. Elgon. Being right across the street from the Parliament building (Uganda's Capital Hill), the restaurant also attracts some seriously connected clientele. It's pretty cool stuffing my face while mingling with the movers and shakers of Uganda. 

How do you escape and unwind? Am I total nut-job or what? I hope this post was able to give you a more holistic view of my crazy experience here in Uganda! 

Ha, attempting to teach Moses the Front Squat but looking more like a Press

1000 Cups Coffee House, a close 2nd behind Cafe Pap

Relaxing the Mind and Having Fun

Bare with me for a second as I promise the following will come full circle. I was unhappy at my first job for one reason only- I was not doing what I believe God called me to do. Yes, I believe everyone has a definite purpose in life, but it's up to us to be open to discovering that purpose. Am I fulfilling my purpose? I can't say, but from my first job to now it feels like I am getting a helluva lot warmer. But God is a funny man. If it wasn't for my first job, I would not be typing to you from Africa today. If it wasn't for my first job, I would not have the friendships that I gained nor the experience of having been tasked awesome responsibility for a guy right out of college.  For anyone who feels a calling to the industry, it is a fantastic job and career opportunity. My department was full of good people and I couldn't have had a better experience with my first two managers in the "real world." 

I respected my managers because they were excellent at knowing when to push, when to back off, and when to have some fun. They were also young and relatable, but most importantly, they were sincere in developing friendships beyond work related activities. To me, that's good leadership. Show me that you care outside of the "9-5" and I will follow you. You may disagree and believe that crossing over into the "friendship realm" is not always appropriate for work, but it worked in my department. It created a sense of closeness and camaraderie that no other department had in the office. 

For the countless Braves/Thrashers/Hawks games, happy hours, lunches at Taco Mac, and dinners at places I won't ever be able to afford, I greatly appreciate the "pick-me-ups" that my managers used to keep us motivated and fresh minded. So, in honor of my friends at my first job, I decided to follow their managerial style by calling for a much needed day off this prior Saturday (there are no such things as weekends for the majority of Ugandan's - it's just another day of survival!). 

Our Day-O-Fun was spent at 40,000 seat Mandela National Stadium, watching the Ugandan Cranes take on the Burundi Swallows in the Africa Nations Championship qualifier. The Cranes bashed the Swallows 4-0, which led to some wild and hilarious celebrations by the home fans. I have never been a real big fan of soccer, but after my first international game I just might be hooked - not necessarily hooked on the sport per se, but the atmosphere of the stadium and the crazy fans. It's a guaranteed good time. 

For my Ugandan partners, I had one rule for the day - no talk of work. The day was needed and deserved and above anything it gave us the opportunity to relax our minds and establish closer friendships and better camaraderie. From my personal experience, I think we will be more productive this week because of it. 

O yeah....and what would the world do without sports? 

Uganda in yellow, Burundi in green

Crazy fans

Goal!

Muzungu jersey. I want one. 

Progress Report

Marketing material provided by the DDA

Starting a small business in a foreign land has been a true trial by fire. There are processes and traditions that you simply can't prepare for unless you've spent time in-country. For example, the tradition of "Local Council's" in Uganda has been an aggravating experience. My patience is going to be forged of stone after my time in Uganda, but I digress. There are three layers of Local Council's: LOC1, LOC2, and LOC3. Essentially, these are village politicians who give you approval to set up shop in their neighborhood. In order to advance up the ladder of approval, you must kiss their butt, sign a few documents, and pay each one a "negotiated" fee to move on. I thought I left bureaucracy behind when I left the corporate world!

I've also found that it's the little things that truly create hiccups along the way. For example, take budgeting. It's near impossible to establish an accurate budget when the currency exchange rates fluctuate every day. One dollar can be valued at 2,200 Uganda Shillings one day and can suddenly change to a value of 1,900 the next day. Fortunately, this is another lesson that I have already learned and experienced playing athletics. Taken lightly, the "little things" will get you beat every time. Taking the "little things" seriously will set you up for huge successes down the road. 

Fortunately, a day in Africa feels like a week, allowing for plenty of time for progress. We are off to a good start and on pace to fulfill our two major goals of launching Mary's Milk and Sunday services. Here are some key updates: 

• Hired our first milk supplier - AWAMU Fresh Milk Suppliers, Ltd. According to the Dairy Development Authority, AWAMU is the most trusted and reputable supplier in Uganda.
• Introduced ourselves to the Dairy Development Authority (DDA) and set up inspection appointments. We are required to obtain a license from the DDA. The DDA also provided us with some freebee marketing materials as seen above. 
• Hired our first employee for Mary's Milk. Her name is Angela. More on Angela in a coming post. 
• Hired an artist/painter who is currently drafting up proposals for painting our store and office. The final product will be a surprise in a coming post. He is also going to work with us on marketing materials. 
• Met with the lead woman in charge of Heifer International in Uganda, Dr. Margaret Makuru. Heifer operates in 120 countries and is one of my favorite organizations. They provide many services, but they are most known for creating the concept of "Passing On The Gift," in which families who receive donated animals sign a contract to pass on the first female offspring to another family in need, and also agree to pass on the training and skills they acquired. We hope to establish a long term partnership with Heifer. 
• Had "dairy training day" with our new supplier, AWAMU. I want all of the directors to be experts in operating a retail shop before we open the doors. They have to know how to run the show when I am gone. The day included learning the different ways of testing milk for quality and purity and learning the best practices for storing and handling the milk. 

 

Training Day. Two ways to test milk for quality and purity: lactometer and boiling. A lactometer reveals if there is any water or dilution in the milk. Boiling milk in a test tube reveals whether or not the milk is drinkable. If any deposits are formed you have to pitch the milk. 

Dr. Margaret Makuru and Henry Ibanda of Heifer International, Uganda. This meeting hopefully set the stage for a long-term, successful partnership. 

Thanks to everyone for your support. I will try my best to provide a weekly progress report or at least keep you posted on key advancements (or set backs). 

Muzungu?

Where's Waldo?

This probably should have been my first post. I've received a lot of questions regarding the title of my blog, "Muzungu!" So what the heck does Muzungu mean?

First, some quick history. According to Wikipedia, "The etymology of the word stems from a contraction of words meaning "one who moves around,"(possibly zunguka, zungusha, mzungukaji-meaning to go round and round) and was coined to describe European traders who traveled through East African countries in the 18th century. The word became synonymous with "white person" because of the traders' complexion." 

It continues, "In Uganda, and to a lesser extent in Kenya, the term "muzungu" carries a connotation of a person who is important, remarkable or to be revered. This usage may well have derived subsequently to the first uses of the word in Uganda, and stems from the fact that European (white) visitors were initially seen as making important contributions to the social and economic development of the region. The term "muzungu" is therefore sometimes used in a complimentary or praiseworthy manner for Ugandans who have achieved some degree of importance or success." 

The latter portion of the Wiki source is what I have experienced in Uganda. Muzungu, or white person, is not used as a derogatory term here. I believe that to the average Ugandan, the word symbolizes two main themes:

1) Friend 

2) Money

Friend

It's refreshing to know how much the locals revere the "Muzungu," especially Americans. The United States has provided billions and billions of dollars in a mass effort to improve the socio-economic conditions in Uganda, and Ugandan's know it. As a result of our help, Uganda has become the economic epicenter of East Africa. There is also a significant network of U.S. and European NGO's (non-profit's) operating throughout Uganda. It's impossible to ignore their influence and positive impact on the country. 

I've been told the following by a local Ugandan, but I can't claim it as fact. According to him, if a Muzungu is being harmed, Ugandan's have an obligation to protect the Muzungu. He went as far as to say that killing a Muzungu is automatically punishable by death. Can anyone back this up? I hope it's true because it sure makes me feel a lot safer! 

Money

The one negative associated with the term Muzungu is money. In my experience, most Ugandan's view white people as being rich. White is synonymous with money. As a result, it is common to be haggled  and high-balled at the markets and asked for handouts or extra support. It's especially tough when you have a very limited budget and everyone is looking to you for something. To give you a good example, when my Uganda partners and I go to the market to purchase goods for our operations, for fun we will send in a Ugandan first to get price estimates and then send me second to get the same estimates. More often then not I am offered a much higher price! 

Well, I hope you learned something new today. I will literally be called Muzungu 50 times tomorrow. 

The "Muzungu" hanging with his Uganda crew. Also giving Villanova Football some love!

"This is Kampala" Part One

"This is Kampala" is a phrase repeated every day here in Kampala by my Ugandan friends. What are they referring to? As easy and clear as I can say it, basically take every notion of common sense and flip it on it's head. Take the above picture. What do you see? It's hard to tell, but that is a four points intersection...with no stops signs...with no traffic cops...with no one stopping! If you are a person who doesn't get a thrill of living on the edge even slightly, it would be hard for you to make it in Kampala. Let's stick to the roads. In my two trips to Uganda, I've seen a biker get tossed off his bike, two people fly off a boda-boda (motorcycle), a dog get run over, multiple accidents, and numerous close calls!

     

Here is a perfect example of the "thrill." Within only four days of being in Kampala we get in a car accident. Fortunately, no one was hurt, but Steve's car got banged up nicely. We were heading straight on Jinja Road (the main road in Kampala) and were hit by a merging government vehicle. Now, because the traffic cop and the driver of the government vehicle have the same boss, the driver was excused because they did not want the government to take a loss. 

Pedestrians do not have the right away when it comes to any circumstance. Crossing the street, riding a bike, old lady or child in the road, nope it doesn't matter - GET OUT OF THE WAY! It's a game of Frogger all day long. 

What about dining? In a lot of places you pay your waitress before you order. What if the food is terrible!? What if the service is poor!? Nope, pay or go hungry. Ugandan's are understandably survivalist by nature. Money is an obsession and sadly trust is not often espoused. 

Sticking with money, Ugandans have an odd sense of the U.S. Dollar that I am still trying to figure out. When you go to the currency exchange place to exchange dollars for shillings, the exchange rate is less for any bill under $100 ("small bills"). "Large bills," or $100 bills are granted the highest exchange. Is this common in any other country? What am I missing? To me, a dollar is a dollar is a dollar. Also, they only accept bills from the year 2000 and above. If there is a tiny tear, an ink mark, the president's face fading, or the bill is wrinkled in any way, they will not accept the bill. What is the deal with that!? 

Lastly, in Uganda you can literally negotiate ANYTHING. Ugandan's are the best salesman in the world. It is really exciting to watch Ugandan's negotiate and argue because they are so amazing at it. Forget business classes, books on selling, and sales training. Every Fortune 500 company should send there sales forces to Uganda for a few weeks to learn from the best. I guarantee their sales would skyrocket. 

Look out for Part Two of "This is Kampala." Something wild happens every day here in Kampala.

To note, this post is meant to be fun. I want my friends and family to have a micro or boots-on-the-ground view of my experience too.  I wouldn't want to experience another culture any other way. What's more real then being fully immersed in the cultural intricacies of a society? It's up to me to assimilate and deal with it. Whenever a Ugandan says, "This is Kampala," he or she is essentially saying "this is how our world works, so get used to it." Good by me! 

Making Moves!

I was assigned two major duties to fulfill for the five weeks I will be in Uganda this go-around.

1) Launch our first small business start-up, Mary's Milk - a raw milk and dairy retail shop.
2) Launch Sunday services held by LOLGMU

Finding the right location for both has been a challenge, especially as a new non-profit with limited funds. With our long term vision always in mind, we have been committed to the motto of crawling before walking and walking before running. With that being said, we were able to close on an excellent deal today.  As I mentioned in my first post, we signed a rental agreement for our first Mary' Milk store, but today our landlord approached us with a better offer. The end unit suddenly came available, which includes an office and a back door that leads to a roughly 20 yard X 30 yard (I'm programmed to think in football measurements) patch of land. There is also a pathway which leads from the main street and down the side of the store to the patch of land.

Based on the land lords terms, for just a little more rent per month, we have sole access to the store, office,  pathway, and land in the back of the unit. Baby steps, right? We found a way to have our store, office for Mary's Milk and LOLGMU, and a piece of land to start Sunday services all under one roof and one rental payment. It's hard to understand how huge this is without experiencing Kampala. Basically, it's urban sprawl (think dangerously high pop. growth rate) is out of control and it can be a logistical nightmare. Now, as just an infant organization, we have a centralized location and home base for Light of the Lord Global Missions: Uganda.

Quickly, you may be thinking, "A piece of land for Sunday services, how will that work?" Our intent is to install tents in which we will hold our services under until we grow our fellowship and have sufficient funds to either a) build a church b) rent out a church or c) rent out any form of a brick and mortar location. However, the piece of land can be useful for many other special projects, such as creating an after school playground or day care for kids or growing gardens to teach local citizens how to be self sufficient.

All in all, today was a major step in reaching our main objectives for March and April. We figured out a way to save money and establish a quasi headquarters for LOLGMU.

More to come...

Street view of soon to be completed Mary's Milk store and office for both the business and LOLGMU

Negotiating our rental terms with Joseph the land lord. This back plot of land will be transformed into really nice lot to hold Sunday services. 

Store side pathway which leads to the land in the back. We are going to spruce it up with bushes, flowers,  stone walk way, all that good stuff. 

Huge day! Signing the new rental agreement

The Beginning

Back in December, '09, I was sent to Uganda on a task to follow up on a vision. That vision has led to the formation of Light of the Lord Global Missions (LOLGM), a 501(c) 3 charitable organization based out of Washington, D.C. and it's first subsidiary, Light of the Lord Global Missions: Uganda (LOLGMU), based out of Kampala, Uganda.

The long term goal of LOLGM is to give every child we can reach the tools, training, support, and opportunity to fulfill their greatest dreams and human potential while living an interdependent life with God. By supporting entrepreneurial activities, Christian fellowship, orphanage services, schooling, health care, and more, we are creating interdependent relationships and programs that connect individuals and families to their churches, communities, schools, universities, businesses, and government, locally and globally.

I am the operations guy or the boots on the ground if you will, but my official title is Global Missions Coordinator. I am also a board member for both LOLGM and LOLGMU. My primary responsibility is  implementation and oversight of operations around the globe while working closely with our in country partners. We have plans to expand in Columbia, Ethiopia, the Philippines, and possibly other countries.

After just three short months I am now back in Uganda implementing business plans and special projects. Today, after closing on a store front property in the Kirombe village of Kampala, we are official owners of our first entrepreneurial start up, Mary's Milk. Mary's Milk is a raw milk and dairy retailer. Every penny earned will go back into the organization to support our long term vision. Not enough Ugandans (especially mothers and children) have access to the health benefits that milk and other dairy products provide. We intend on providing a high quality raw milk product to the local citizens of Kampala. Once we have established ourselves on the retail level, our long term goal is to be a totally vertically integrated operation by owning farming, distribution, and retail rights.

Not in a million years did I ever believe I would be doing mission work. Since jumping on board with LOLGM in December, I've had the opportunity to travel across the world, see wild animals, do research in Brazil, study raw milk dairy farming in Pennsylvania, meet with embassy officials, lawyers, entrepreneurs. Is mission work my definite purpose in life? I am not sure. I still have a lot of other passions that move me on a daily basis. But, for now, this adventure is incredibly awesome.

Sure beats a cubicle...

Our Uganda partners: (Left to Right) John, Steve, Aba

Home to the soon to be completed Mary's Milk

Proof of purchase!